When it comes to clean, parchment-dried Ethiopian coffees, we tend to favor very subtle and delicate cup profiles. This coffee, beautifully grown and processed, caught our attention with its aromatic intensity. Such intensity often comes at the expense of aromatic clarity (easily identifiable and distinct flavors, with a clean aftertaste). In this coffee, we find both the intensity and clarity that give it a vibrant and fruity profile, with a refreshing and pure finish. 

The solid foundation of this exceptional quality likely lies in the fact that this coffee is forest-grown according to organic farming principles. Arabica is, of course, native to Ethiopia, where it seems to flourish in its natural environment. 

Once the cherries are carefully harvested, they rest overnight before being depulped using a Pentagos eco-pulper. This is a machine that mechanically removes almost all of the mucilage. 

The aromatic intensity combined with this very clean finish may therefore be the result of this processing technique. Resting the whole cherries overnight could allow for the development of more intense fruity aromas (through oxidation/fermentation) before the "fuel" (in the form of mucilage) is almost entirely removed, followed by a short 24-hour soak in water, and then drying. 

Regardless, this is a magnificent cup of coffee, undeniably Ethiopian in origin. Intense aromas of lime, lemon, apricot, mandarin, and honey, supported by a lively, crisp acidity, with little to no astringency on the finish. 

I hope you enjoy it – Paul Arnephy

Owner: Aman Adinew

Company: Metad

Farm: Alaka

Zone: Guji

Woreda: Hambella

Species: Arabica

Varieties: 74110, 74112, 74140, 75227, heirloom

Process: Natural (sun-dried)

Drying: Drying beds

Altitude: 2,100 - 2,200m

Harvest type: Manual

Importer: Belco

Green coffee moisture content at time of purchase: 9.4%

Information provided by Belco: 

Aman Adinew founded Metad in 2010, and coffee production began three years later. His brother, Tariku Adinew, joined the company shortly after. In Hambela, Metad owns a 200-hectare farm located in the Hambela Wamenna woreda, specifically in the Alaka and Bishan Fugu kebeles.

This Guji forest coffee is offered by Metad. Keen to restore the full value and recognition of this type of production, the company has been promoting, from the village of Bishan Fugu, a carefully traced, hand-harvested forest coffee renowned for its characteristic fruity profile.

The cultivation system used on these plots follows the semi-forest model well-known in Ethiopia. The landscape is rich in natural forest, where climax indigenous tree species can still be found, such as the qararo (Aningeria adolfi-friederici). The farm is organized into plots, each planted with a single coffee variety. The varieties grown include: 75227, 74112, 74110, and 74140. The plantation is managed according to organic farming principles, and all coffee cherries are hand-harvested.

The cherries are pulped using a Penagos ecological pulper the morning after harvest. This machine removes the mucilage and significantly reduces the amount of water required to wash the parchment coffee. After pulping, the parchment coffee is soaked for a day before being spread out on drying tables.

Drying is carried out on traditional African raised beds, and thanks to the high altitude (over 2,000 meters) and the favorable orientation of the wet mill, optimal drying conditions are achieved. The drying process typically lasts between ten and fifteen days.

This lot is a Q1-grade, organically certified washed coffee, which represents the highest level of quality for Ethiopian coffee.

Belco and Metad have been working together since 2018, united by a shared vision of quality, environmental responsibility, and respect for the people involved throughout the coffee value chain. This shared vision, combined with Metad's strong commitment to local development projects, convinced Belco to become Metad’s importer in Europe.

“METAD wishes to make our community happier and healthier, and we are proud to implement ethical and socially responsible practices at all levels of our company. A portion of all profits is reinvested into the community, including for the construction of clinics and roads, as well as the drilling of wells to provide drinking water, among other initiatives. We have sponsored a local primary school, providing more than 850 students with essential school supplies and financial support; we also offer university scholarships to 105 disadvantaged students in our region, and we have established a partnership with Grounds-for-Health, a US-based NGO that works with coffee-growing communities to eradicate cervical cancer in women. More than 70% of METAD’s current agricultural workforce is composed of women.”

Alaka is the name of a village located at approximately 2000 meters above sea level, in the Hambella woreda, within the Guji appellation. It is here that Metad took over the management of a beautiful coffee forest in the late 2010s, on a Farm of about 141 hectares.

This area is characterized by the presence of majestic trees and varied species that, through their Shade and the rich soil fertility they provide, promote the production of a rare coffee. The Farm is part of a regenerative agricultural approach, where different crops coexist with the coffee trees. Notably, false banana (ensete), black pepper, and avocado trees are found there, while the trees present on the Plot contribute to natural shade and improved moisture and rainfall management.

The cherries harvested by Metad are then processed on-site using different methods. Natural coffees are sun-dried on African raised beds for about 15 to 20 days, while washed coffees follow a shorter processing method, with drying for approximately 7 days. The Farm has about 240 African raised beds dedicated to drying, as well as several hulling machines used for processing natural coffees.

Under these unique Agroforestry conditions, the soil fertility, altitude, and surrounding Biodiversity contribute to the production of complex and expressive coffees, typical of the Guji origin.

The coffees handled by Metad are rigorously traced at every stage of the process. Lots are primarily received in parchment and undergo several mechanical sorting steps, each removing a specific type of defect, before a final Hand Sorting. This attention to processing and quality control significantly contributes to the final quality of the coffees.

Metad supports social and environmental projects whose local roots ensure their success. For coffee producers, Metad implements regular training and pre-payments for harvests, which provide these farmers with greater stability. The group has also already distributed over 600,000 coffee seedlings to the farmers they work with.

More broadly, Metad has, for example, helped construct roads. They have also funded the establishment of primary schools, covering all expenses (materials, teachers' salaries, etc.) for 800 students. They provide scholarships for 105 disadvantaged students in the Gedeo zone. Metad also implements specific support projects for women in producer communities, particularly in disease prevention and screening.

Filter
Ratio 1:15

15g freshly ground coffee
225g water
Water temperature: just off the boil 

The brewing device is not very important; we use the Orea porcelain dripper for its fast flow rate and design. 

The most important thing is to grind the coffee fresh and use water with low mineral content.

Espresso

If you have professional-grade equipment, you can prepare a delicious espresso with this coffee.

Aim for a ratio of at least 1:3 and enjoy!